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Story Publication logo May 10, 2019

Preparing for Carnaval in Coyolillo

Country:

Mexico

Author:

Jonathan Custodio
2018 Reporting Fellow

A young girl rides her bike through Coyolillo, a small town in Veracruz with a high population of Afro-Mexicans. Image by Jonathan Custodio. Mexico, 2018.

English

Veracruz is home to hundreds of thousands of Afro-Mexicans. In 2015, they were officially recognized...

Jonathan Custodio
2018 Reporting Fellow

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This sign welcomes newcomers and residents into the Afro-Mestizo town. Shadowing Coyolillo at the top are depictions of a bull's head, its mascot. Image by Jonathan Custodio. Mexico, 2018.

Daniela Lopez Carreto (right) leads her dance class through the steps of Sinte, a dance that originates from Guinea. Image by Jonathan Custodio. Mexico, 2018.

Delicious dishes that will besiege Carnaval include beef barbecue, stuffed chile, guacamole, pig's blood, yellow rice, and tamales. Image by Jonathan Custodio. Mexico, 2018.

Mary Cruz Barradas Carranza (far right) and her assistant take a break from feeding from Coyolillans. They look forward to preparing chile relleno (stuffed chile), Coyolillo's signature dish, for thousands of people. Image by Jonathan Custodio. Mexico, 2018.

Dance students learn some Sinte moves. Image by Jonathan Custodio. Mexico, 2018.

Isaias Carreto Zaragoza (far right) discusses Carnaval preparations with fellow organizers. He enjoys teaching the history of Carnaval and slave rebellion in Actopan, Veracruz, the municipality where Coyolillo resides. Image by Jonathan Custodio. Mexico, 2018.

A young girl looks past the event hall, where many performances are held, to gaze up at the Cero de Congo, which is also Coyolillo's nickname. Image by Jonathan Custodio. Mexico, 2018.

The ascent has already begun. A group of young children follow suit. Image by Jonathan Custodio. Mexico, 2018.

On their way to honor tradition, town residents must travel this rocky-manure filled path to reach Las Cruces, three crosses overseeing their homes. Image by Jonathan Custodio. Mexico, 2018.

Carreto Zaragoza leads the pack. He holds a bottle of juice in his hand, in case the children become thirsty. Image by Jonathan Custodio. Mexico, 2018.

A fence made of barbed wire and wooden sticks proves to be a formidable blockade. Townsfolk carefully climb up a bundle of rocks to step over the sharp danger and make it to the other side. Image by Jonathan Custodio. Mexico, 2018.

Marisela (center), who was voted to be this year's Queen of Carnaval, begins to tire. The young boy on the right waits patiently to adorn his bull's mask. Image by Jonathan Custodio. Mexico, 2018.

Las Cruces finally greet their cultural practitioners. Image by Jonathan Custodio. Mexico, 2018.

Coyolillo. Image by Jonathan Custodio. Mexico, 2018.

Though it is most prominent in Brazil, the annual Carnaval festival has dug its roots into grounds worldwide and Mexico is no different. Located in the center of the coastal state of Veracruz, a 30-minute drive from its capital, Coyolillo is one of the few towns that takes pride in the country's African roots and presence, identifying itself as an Afromestizo, or "Afromixed," town.