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Story Publication logo May 14, 2024

Coastal Communities on Frontline of the Climate Crisis — Dwesa-Cwebe in Hobeni, Eastern Cape

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Scientists say the seismic surveys used to locate oil and gas are harmful to marine life.

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November 16, 2023: Madala Gobizembe Dumezweni is both a traditional healer and a pastor. When he was called by his ancestors he was directed to perform certain rituals at the mouth of the Mbashe River. He says that an oil spill would cause all the animals and people who are able to leave the area to leave. The ancestors would be forced to leave as well. "There will be no life here," he says. Image by Barry Christianson. South Africa.

This series of photo essays explores the relationships between the people living in various coastal communities and the ocean, in each of South Africa’s coastal provinces.

This work was supported by the Pulitzer Center. Daily Maverick will publish a series of four photo essays. This is part one.


Hobeni is a small village on South Africa’s Wild Coast, in the Eastern Cape. It forms part of the seven Dwesa-Cwebe communities. Ancestors of its current residents settled at the Mbashe River, which flanks the village, centuries ago. From that time onwards hunting in the forest, fishing, and harvesting of shellfish was governed by customary law. In addition to their livelihood, they’ve relied on the ocean for their spirituality because their ancestors are in the ocean. 

The people living at Dwesa-Cwebe have suffered multiple dispossessions. Forced removals under the guise of conservation began in the 1890s, and continued until the 1970s, when the Dwesa-Cwebe reserve was fenced off. In 2000 the area was declared a marine protected area with a no-take ruling prohibiting residents from fishing and harvesting mussels.

There have also been a few victories. A land claim was awarded to the Dwesa-Cwebe villages in the form of a monetary settlement in 2001. However, in 2010, Malibongwe David Gongqose was arrested for fishing at the Mbashe River. In 2018, the Supreme Court of Appeal ruled that customary law and conservation can co-exist. “… The Dwesa-Cwebe communities have a greater interest in marine resources associated with their traditions and customs, than any other people. These customs recognise the need to sustain the resources that the sea provides,” the judgment reads.


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November 3, 2023: Jongithuba Mathelele Mpampa (72) hunts for octopus in the rock pools on the coast near the Mbashe River mouth at low tide. His agility belies his age. He hops from rock to rock, poking his stick into rock pools, looking for octopus. Keeping a watchful eye on the waves, he decides whether to anchor as they break or hop to safety. Octopus is used as bait when targeting the large cob that inhabit the waters around the Mbashe River mouth. Image by Barry Christianson. South Africa.

So, when Shell began its third seismic survey in waters off the Wild Coast, the Dwesa-Cwebe Communal Property Association was one of the applicants that approached the courts to stop Shell. 

They argued that, as affected parties, Shell had failed to meaningfully consult them before beginning its third seismic survey. On 1 September 2022 the high court ruled that Shell’s exploration right was granted unlawfully. 

The judgment, delivered by Judge President Selby Mbenenge, included the following text: “… It is incumbent on them to protect the natural resources, including the ocean, for present and future generations; the ocean is the sacred site where their ancestors live and so have a duty to ensure that their ancestors are not unnecessarily disturbed and that they are content.”

Climate change, accelerated by fossil fuel production, is making the lives and cultures of people who rely on the ocean more and more precarious. Coastal communities are therefore at the frontline of the climate crisis, which South Africa’s push for marine oil and gas extraction threatens to exacerbate. 


November 13, 2023: An octopus hangs off a stump of a tree branch, waiting to be sliced into pieces of bait. Image by Barry Christianson. South Africa.

November 13, 2023: Malibongwe David Gongqose fishes at the Mbashe River mouth close to sundown. In 2010 Gongqose was arrested for fishing at the mouth of the Mbashe River. Ultimately, the Supreme Court of Appeal found that Gongqose was exercising his customary right to fish when he was arrested. Image by Barry Christianson. South Africa.

November 13, 2023: Fish scales lay scattered on the floor of the mangrove forest at the Mbashe River mouth, waiting for the high tide to sweep them away. Image by Barry Christianson. South Africa.

November 17, 2023: Nowinasi Ndawo takes part in the tradition of harvesting shellfish in the intertidal zones in order to feed her family and sell for a bit of income. She was taught by her mother, who in turn was taught by her grandmother. Each month when the moon is full, Nowinasi makes the 3-kilometer journey through the forest, which includes steep, muddy sections, to collect mussels, limpets, and red bait. After filling her buckets, she makes the same trek back home, retracing her steps. Image by Barry Christianson. South Africa.

November 17, 2023: A knife rests on a small pile of limpets while the women rinse and separate the mussels they harvested on the day. Image by Barry Christianson. South Africa.

November 17, 2023: Nowinasi Ndawo is regarded as the most skilful mussel collector by her peers. One of the reasons is the fearless way in which she navigates the rocks at the edge of the intertidal zone. Image by Barry Christianson. South Africa, 2023.

November 17, 2023: Mussels and other shellfish have been harvested at Dwesa-Cwebe for three centuries. For the women who participate in the activity, the mussels represent a valuable source of protein as well as a source of livelihood as they sell their harvest to neighbours in their villages. Image by Barry Christianson. South Africa.

November 15, 2023: Malibongwe David Gongqose walks home on the road that winds through Hobeni. Image by Barry Christianson. South Africa.

November 16, 2023: Malibongwe David Gongqose fishes at the Mbashe River mouth in the evening. That evening he didn’t catch a single fish. "I don’t know why they aren’t biting. Maybe the water is too cold." Image by Barry Christianson. South Africa.

November 16, 2023: Malibongwe David Gongqose packs up his fishing gear after a fishless evening and prepares to make the 6-kilometer walk home. Speaking about the possible impact of seismic surveys and the possibility of oil spills, he asks: "What will happen to the fish? What will happen to the fishermen? What will happen to the ancestors?" Image by Barry Christianson. South Africa.

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